Glossary

Glossary of Watch Terminology

Finding the watch you would like can be difficult when you encounter the number of terms that are used to describe watch functions and parts. To help you we’ve come up with a list of some of the most used terms. This list is not exhaustive though so if there are others you think should be included please let us know.

Analog

This is a watch that you can tell the time using hour and minute hands.

Analog – Digital

This is a watch that has both hands and a digital display in numbers.

Aperture

Where the date is displayed within the dial of the watch

Atmosphere (Atm)

A measure of the water resistance of a watch.

Automatic Movement

An automatic watch has a mechanical movement and does not need to be regularly wound. Its power comes from the movement of your wrist as you wear it. Most automatic watches have a power reserve of up to 36 hours.

Battery Reserve Indicator

Some Quartz watches have this function. The watch will indicate when the battery is nearing the end of its life. This can often be seen by observing the movement of the hands which will jump 2-4 seconds depending upon the make and model.

Bezel

The Bezel is the ring around the dial of the watch. Often it serves as other functions (as is the case with a Bi-directional Rotating Bezel). It is often made of Stainless Steel or Gold (or Gold Plated).

Bracelet

Linked metal strap on a watch. You can change the length by removing links.

Brushed Steel

Stainless Steel with a Matt ‘brushed’ effect finish.

Buckle

The buckle joins the strap together and is often made of the same material as the case of the watch.

Calendar

Date Indicator

Calibre

The size and configuration of the movement inside the watch.

Case

The metal outside of the watch which holds the mechanism.

Chronograph

A watch with 3 subdials within the larger dial. Used to display other functions of the watch such as a stopwatch.

Chronometer

A Standard set by the Official Watch Institute of Switzerland (COSC). The watch would have been rigorously tested for its accuracy at various temperatures and in different atmospheres and is supplied with a certificate.

Clasp

The clasp attaches the strap or bracelet at either end.

Cosmograph

As with a Chronograph, except that the Tachymeter function is found on the bezel of the watch.

Crown

The crown is the button on the side of the watch (usually the right) which changes the time and date of the watch. The Crown is also used to wind the watch depending on its movement.

Crystal

The glass on a watch can be made of Plexi Glass (A synthetic Crystal) or Sapphire Crystal depending upon its make and age.

Dual Time Zone

A watch that can display at least 2 time zones by means of a Subdial, an extra hand etc.

Deployment Buckle

The clasp folds under the strap of the watch.

Diver’s Clasp

Suitable to wear over a diving suit

End of Life (EOL)

Indicates the end of life of a battery within a quartz watch by succesive jumps of the seconds hand of 4 seconds or a flashing digital display.

Frequency

The number of vibrations a second, in hertz (Hz).

Flyback hand

A seconds hand on a chronograph that is used to determine lap or finishing times

GMT

Greenwich Mean Time, used as universal standard time.

Gold

Gold is a metal that is used as an alloy frequently in watch making. The amount of gold is measured in Carats.

Guilloché

A type of Dial. As opposed to a flat colour, a Guilloche dial is textured with engravings.

Hands

The pointing device anchored at the center and circling around the dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds and any other special features of the watch.

Helium Escape Valve

Decompression System allowing helium to escape from inside the watch. Used professionally in decompression chambers.

Horology

The art and study of watch making.

Jewels

Within a mechanical watch the jewels are used as bearings. Most watches with mechanical movements will contain at least 17 jewels.

Kinetic

Based on a new technology, Seiko Kinetic watches run entirely on generated energy from natural movement of your wrist. It does not require a battery.

LCD

Liquid-crystal display. This digital time display is used by longines to give additional chronograph indications.

Lugs

On the case, this is where the bracelet or strap is joined.

Luminous

Illuminating paint on the batons, numerals and/or hands of certain watches.

Manual

A hand-wound mechanical watch.

Mechanical

Describes a movement with a balance wheel.

Mechanical movement

A movement based on a mainspring which is wound by hand; when wound, it slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion. An automatic mechanical requires no winding because of the rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move your body.

Military or 24-hour time

When time is measured in 24-hour segments. To convert 12-hour time into 24-hour time, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24-hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12 from any time from 13 to 24.

Mineral glass

Watch glass that has been tempered to increase its scratch resistance.

Minute repeater

A complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece.

Moon phase

An indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

Mother-of-Pearl

Iridescent, milky interior shell of the fresh water mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink, and salmon.

Movement

The inner workings or assembly that make up the main timekeeping mechanism. movements are either quartz or mechanical. This is the engine of the watch.

Oyster

Invented in 1926 by Rolex. At the time it was described as" the first waterproof, airtight and dustproof watch. Named Oyster due to its shape.

Perpetual

A perpetual rotor converts the movement of the wrist into energy that can be stored and powers the watch.

Pink Gold (Also Rose Gold)

Gold Metal with a pink/rose tint

Platinum

 

Polished

Shiny Stainless Steel used in many fashion pieces. (As opposed to Brushed)

Quartz

A Watch which is powered by a battery

Rolseium

 

Rolesor

Stainless Steel and 18ct Gold Case and Bracelet on a Rolex.

Rotating Bezel

A bezel that can be turned. Different types of rotating bezels perform different functions.

Sapphire Crystal

A transparent crystal frequently used in watch making due to its resistance to scratching.

Screw-Locking Crown (Also Screw-in Crown)

The screw-in crown seals the crown against the case and aids water resistance.

Solid End Links (SEL)

On some recent Rolex watches they have solid links on the bracelet.

Stainless Steel

A Metal alloy which is known for its resistance to rusting. The most common metal used in watch making.

Strap

A band to secure the watch to your wrist. Can be leather, rubber, canvas etc.

Subdial(s)

A smaller dial within the face on a Chronograph to display other functions, such as the date.

Sun/Moon Indicator

A wheel visible on the dial of a watch displaying the sun and moon over a 24 hour period.

Tachymeter

Often used in the motor industry to measure the speed of a car over a specific distance. Functions via a scale on the bezel of a chronograph. Average speeds or hourly production rates can be calculated over a period of observation of less than 60 seconds

Titanium

A stronger and lighter metal than Stainless Steel and increasingly used to make watches.

Waterproof

Beware if a watch is described as waterproof as this would not be the case. No watch is considered 100% Water Proof and watches are not allowed to be termed as such. See Water Resistant for correct terminology)

Water Resistance

A watch classed as this is able to withstand splashes of water (Eg. In the kitchen or in the rain) but cannot be used for swimming or diving. Diving watches are classified as "Water resistant to 200 meters" to indicate the depth to which it can withstand pressure. For more details see individual model descriptions

White Gold

An 18k alloy of yellow gold with nickel or similar metal

Yellow Gold

Either 14k or 18k. The traditional gold used in watch making in both all gold or bi-metal combinations.

If you have questions that you would like answered on any watch related subject then why not post a message on our Talk Time Forum. Talk Time is free to all visitors to www.watches.co.uk.