Top 6 Most
Iconic
Chronographs:
Legendary
Watches
That Define
Timekeeping
Few watch complications capture the imagination quite like the chronograph. These are precision instruments; tools for measuring elapsed time with the press of a button, and a symbols of engineering excellence. From the racetrack to the cockpit and from space missions to Hollywood screens, chronographs have played a key role in some of the most exciting moments in history.
Their popularity stems from a unique blend of functionality, mechanical complexity, and timeless style. Whether you’re drawn to a chronograph for its precision, its historical significance, or simply its bold aesthetic, these watches have a distinct appeal that sets them apart. With countless options available, from vintage to modern, almost everyone can find a chronograph watch that perfectly suits their taste and lifestyle.
In this article we explore the stories behind what, in our opinion, are six of the most legendary chronographs ever made. These are watches that have shaped the history of timekeeping and continue to set the standard for their significance, performance, and design.
Contents
A Brief History of the Chronograph
The chronograph has a history stretching back over two centuries, evolving from rudimentary timing devices to the sophisticated mechanical marvels we admire today. Before we get to our list, let’s first take a step back and take a quick look at how the chronograph came to be.
The first recorded chronograph was invented in 1821 by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, a French watchmaker who developed a device to precisely time horse races. His design used ink to mark elapsed time on a dial—a primitive but effective concept that laid the groundwork for modern chronographs.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, chronographs became indispensable tools for aviation, motorsports, and scientific measurements. Brands like Longines, Breitling, and Heuer began refining the design, introducing wrist-worn versions that were easier to use than pocket watches.
One of the most significant turning points came in the late 1960s, when the race to develop the first automatic chronograph reached its climax.
Three contenders emerged:
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Zenith, which was secretly working on the El Primero, a high-frequency automatic chronograph.
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Seiko, developing the 6139, the first automatic chronograph with a vertical clutch.
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A Swiss coalition of Heuer, Breitling, Buren, and Dubois Dépraz, collaborating on the Calibre 11.
Each laid claim to the title, and each brought about their own style of innovation, but Zenith’s El Primero is widely regarded as being the first automatic chronograph to reach the market at the start of 1969.
In the decades since, chronographs have continued to evolve, blending beautiful and functional design with advancements in materials and movement technology. However, a select few have achieved true icon status. These are watches that have set new benchmarks, shaped the industry, and for one reason or another have captivated the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts.
Let’s explore them.
1. Rolex Daytona
What makes the Daytona iconic:
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The quintessential sports chronograph.
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Originally developed for use in professional motorsports, the Daytona blends luxury and prestige with precision, durability and design like no other watch.
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Its association with Paul Newman and continued evolution in design and technologies have made it one of the most sought after and collectable watches in the world.
While it may be an obvious choice, no list of the most iconic chronographs would be complete without the Rolex Daytona. Born in 1963 as a high-precision tool for professional racing drivers, the Daytona has since evolved into perhaps the most coveted chronograph on the planet. But its rise to stardom wasn’t immediate, and unlike some of the other watches in our list, the Daytona wasn’t necessarily the first in any major area. In fact, its journey from underappreciated tool watch to multimillion-dollar grail is one of the most fascinating transformations in horology.
A Watch Built for Speed
By the early 1960s, Rolex had already built a reputation for making some of the world’s best tool watches. Its range included the Submariner for divers, the GMT-Master for pilots, and the Explorer for adventurers. But there was one group Rolex had yet to cater to: professional racing drivers.
Motorsports were booming, and America was the epicenter of high-speed racing, with the Daytona International Speedway in Florida emerging as one of the sport’s most prestigious circuits. Always keen on innovation, Rolex saw an opportunity to create a chronograph designed specifically for measuring lap times; a watch built for those who lived life in the fast lane.
In 1963, Rolex introduced the Cosmograph Reference 6239, a chronograph unlike any Rolex before it. It featured a tachymeter scale engraved on the stainless steel bezel, making it easier to read at a glance. The Daytona was also larger and sportier than previous Rolex chronographs, with a high-contrast dial and three subdials for measuring elapsed time.
And yet, despite its now iconic design, the Daytona wasn’t an immediate success. Sales were sluggish, with many customers preferring dressier Rolex models like the Datejust or Day-Date. Little did they know that this slow-selling chronograph would one day become the most valuable Rolex of all time.
The Paul Newman Effect
If the Rolex Daytona were a movie, Paul Newman would be its leading man. The Hollywood actor and professional racing car driver was often seen wearing a Rolex Daytona Reference 6239, gifted to him by his wife, Joanne Woodward. This wasn’t just any Daytona, it had an exotic dial featuring an art-deco font and contrasting subdials that made it look distinctly different from standard models.
At this point in the history of the Daytona, these exotic dial variations weren’t the most popular, leading to low production numbers. But as Newman’s association with the watch grew, helped by his status as a real-life racing driver, the “Paul Newman Daytona” became a holy grail for collectors.
From Valjoux to Zenith to In-House Masterpiece
While the early manual-wind Daytonas struggled to find an audience, Rolex never gave up on the model. In 1988, everything changed. Rolex introduced the first automatic Daytona, powered not by an in-house movement, but by a heavily modified Zenith El Primero calibre.
The new Daytona Reference 16520 featured a larger 40mm case, a sapphire crystal, and improved water resistance, transforming it into a true modern luxury sports watch.
Rolex’s decision to use the Zenith El Primero movement was significant. The El Primero was the first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, running at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). However, Rolex modified it, reducing the frequency to 28,800 vph for better long-term durability and serviceability. This move made the Zenith-powered Daytona one of the most desirable chronographs of the 1990s and early 2000s.
In 2000, Rolex made history again by introducing its first fully in-house chronograph movement, the Calibre 4130, inside the new Daytona Reference 116520. This movement was a technical masterpiece, with a vertical clutch system for smoother chronograph engagement and a longer 72-hour power reserve, improving reliability. It also had fewer components than previous chronograph movements, increasing efficiency and reducing the need for servicing.
While vintage references are of course highly sought after, it was perhaps at this moment that the Daytona reached a new level in terms of quality and technology, offering a level of precision, durability, and exclusivity unmatched in the luxury watch world.
Then, in 2017, the impossible happened. Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Daytona, inscribed on the caseback with "Drive Carefully Me" (a message from his wife), went up for auction. The final hammer price? A staggering $17.8 million, making it the most expensive Rolex ever sold. Overnight, the Daytona’s status as the ultimate collector’s watch was sealed.
The Modern Daytona
The modern steel Daytona (Ref. 126500LN), represents the pinnacle of Rolex’s evolution in chronograph technology. Released in 2023, it features a black Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which is both scratch-proof and fade-resistant, ensuring the watch retains its pristine look for decades. It remains one of the most desirable watches on the planet, with customers wanting to buy a brand new example often experiencing significant challenges sourcing one from a Rolex boutique or authorised dealer.
What makes the modern Daytona so special? It’s the combination of precision, design, and exclusivity. The ceramic bezel resists aging, while the Chromalight luminescence ensures perfect readability in low light. Its 904L Oystersteel case is nearly impervious to corrosion, and the in-house Calibre 4131 delivers chronometer-certified accuracy, proving that the Daytona is as much a tool as it is a status symbol.
And yet, despite all its advancements, the Daytona still retains the essence of the original 1963 racing chronograph. Like many of the brand’s other models it fulfills a dual purpose, in this case offering precision and performance on the track, while also being a beautiful, elegant, and dependable watch for everyday wear.
2. Omega Speedmaster
What makes the Speedmaster iconic:
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The first watch in history to have been worn on the moon.
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Introduced in 1957, the Speedmaster became NASA’s official watch for all manned space missions including every Apollo mission.
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Remaining faithful to its origins, no other chronograph can claim to have played such a crucial role in one of humanity’s greatest achievements; landing on the moon.
The Omega Speedmaster is a watch like no other; it’s a symbol of adventure, precision, and human ingenuity. While it was originally designed for racing drivers, the Speedmaster was destined for far greater things. Through a combination of engineering brilliance, historical serendipity, and sheer resilience, it became the first watch worn on the moon, forever earning its title as ‘The Moonwatch’.
Born For The Track
When Omega introduced the Speedmaster in 1957, it wasn’t thinking about space, it was thinking about speed. The Speedmaster was meant for professional drivers who needed an accurate and legible timing instrument to measure lap times.
From the beginning, the Speedmaster was ahead of its time. It was the first chronograph to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel instead of printed on the dial, a revolutionary design choice that allowed for better readability that has since become standard on racing chronographs. The watch was powered by the manual-wind Calibre 321, a column-wheel chronograph movement that remains one of the most celebrated in watchmaking history.
The Speedmaster quickly became popular among engineers, sportsmen, and professionals who needed a tough, reliable, and highly precise chronograph. But then, in the early 1960s, a new frontier was opening up - space exploration. The Speedmaster was about to embark on perhaps the most extraordinary journey of any watch in history.
The NASA Trials
In the early 1960s, as NASA prepared for its ambitious Apollo program, it realised that astronauts needed a durable, accurate, and reliable wristwatch that could withstand the extreme conditions of space. So, NASA began testing several chronographs from different brands, including Rolex, Hamilton, Longines-Wittnauer, and Omega, subjecting them to brutal endurance trials that included:
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Extreme temperature fluctuations: From -18°C to +93°C (-0.4°F to 200°F).
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Intense vibrations: Simulating the violent shaking during launch.
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Zero-gravity conditions: Ensuring functionality in weightlessness.
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High-pressure and low-pressure environments: Mimicking space and re-entry conditions.
The results were conclusive. Every watch failed except one. The Omega Speedmaster was the only contender that made it through all of NASA’s gruelling tests and was officially certified as the “Flight-Qualified Watch for All Manned Space Missions” in 1965.
That same year, the Speedmaster made history when astronaut Ed White wore it during the first-ever American spacewalk (EVA) on Gemini IV. From that moment on, the Speedmaster was no longer just a watch for racing, it was a tool for astronauts and an essential piece of space equipment.
The Apollo 11 Moon Landing
July 20, 1969: A date that would forever be etched in human history. As Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface, they accomplished something once thought impossible - humans had landed on the moon. And on Aldrin’s wrist? The Omega Speedmaster Professional Reference 105.012.
With that moment, the Speedmaster became the first watch worn on the moon, a feat no other timepiece can claim. Armstrong, the first man to step onto the lunar surface, left his Speedmaster inside the lunar module as a backup for the onboard timer, but Aldrin wore his, ensuring the Speedmaster’s place in the history of exploration.
To this day, Omega proudly engraves the words Flight-Qualified by NASA for All Manned Space Missions and The First Watch Worn on the Moon on the casebacks of Speedmaster Moonwatch models as a reminder of this incredible achievement.
The Apollo 13 Rescue
The Speedmaster’s most heroic moment came during the Apollo 13 mission in 1970. When an oxygen tank explosion crippled the spacecraft, the astronauts had to manually time a critical 14-second engine burn to adjust their trajectory for re-entry into Earth’s atmosphere.
Without digital instruments, they relied on their Omega Speedmasters to execute the maneuver flawlessly. The burn was successful, and Apollo 13 made it back safely. To recognise Omega’s contribution to the mission, NASA awarded the brand the Silver Snoopy Award, one of the highest honors given by astronauts to companies that play a crucial role in space missions. Snoopy Edition Speedmasters remain to this day some of the most sought after by collectors.
From Calibre 321 to Co-Axial Master Chronometer
Despite its legendary status, Omega has never stopped improving the Speedmaster. While the design of the watch has remained true to its roots, with incremental refinements over the years, the movement has seen more significant updates, evolving from the original Calibre 321 to the Calibre 861, 1861, and now the modern 3861, which features a Co-Axial escapement that improves accuracy and reducing friction. It’s Master Chronometer certified and offers anti-magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss.
The Speedmaster family has also expanded significantly, including a range of special and limited edition references. At the heart of the range, the Speedmaster Professional is available in a choice of material options including steel and gold, as well as with either a traditional Hesalite crystal or durable sapphire crystal. There are also modern recreations of some historic references available such as the Speedmaster ‘57, the First Omega In Space, and the Calibre 321 that blend modern technology with the Speedmaster’s iconic aesthetics - proof that great design really does stand the test of time.
3. Breitling Navitimer
What makes the Navitimer iconic:
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The ultimate aviation chronograph.
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The Navitimer’s unique slide rule bezel makes it a mechanical flight computer for the wrist, allowing the wearer to perform a wide range of essential calculations.
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With its triple sub dial configuration and distinctive multi-scale rotating bezel, the Navitimer is unmistakable and instantly recognisable.
While many chronographs were originally developed for professional motorsports or military use, the Breitling Navitimer was designed from the start as a watch specifically for aviators. When it was first introduced, this remarkable timepiece offered pilots a revolutionary tool that provided a wealth of functionality alongside its chronograph complication. Today, over 70 years later, the Navitimer remains one of the most respected pilot’s watches in history.
A Watch Designed For Aviation
In the early 1950s, commercial aviation was booming. The era of jet-powered passenger planes was just beginning, and pilots needed tools that could help them manage increasingly complex flight calculations. Breitling, already renowned for its precision chronographs, saw an opportunity to create a watch that could do more than just measure elapsed time; it would assist pilots in navigation itself.
In 1952, Breitling introduced the Navitimer, a watch that combined a sophisticated chronograph with a circular slide rule bezel (a feature borrowed from the earlier Breitling Chronomat). This slide rule allowed pilots to perform crucial calculations directly on their wrist, including air speed, unit conversions, flight time, fuel consumption, and climb and descent rates.
For pilots, this was a game-changer. Instead of relying on cumbersome E6B flight computers or doing mental arithmetic in high-stress situations, they could simply turn the bezel of their Navitimer and get an instant answer. It was the closest thing to a cockpit instrument that could be worn on the wrist.
The AOPA Connection
Shortly after its release, the Navitimer was adopted by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), one of the largest aviation organisations in the world. Some early Navitimer models featured the AOPA logo on the dial, and these examples are particularly sought after today amongst vintage collectors.
This endorsement was critical in cementing the Navitimer’s reputation. Professional and private pilots embraced the watch, and it soon became synonymous with aviation itself. If you were a pilot in the 1950s or 1960s, chances were high that you either owned a Navitimer, or wanted one.
The Navitimer in Space
While the Omega Speedmaster is best known as the Moonwatch, the Breitling Navitimer was actually one of the first chronographs worn in space. In 1962, astronaut Scott Carpenter approached Breitling with a special request: He needed a watch that could display both conventional 12-hour time and 24-hour time, as distinguishing between day and night in space was impossible.
Breitling responded by creating the Navitimer Cosmonaute, a variation of the Navitimer featuring a 24-hour dial. Carpenter wore the watch during his Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, making it one of the first Swiss wristwatches to leave Earth’s atmosphere.
Though the Speedmaster would later become NASA’s official moonwatch, Breitling had already secured its place in space history. The Navitimer Cosmonaute remains a beloved part of the collection today, offering pilots, astronauts, and enthusiasts a direct connection to the pioneering days of human spaceflight.
The Evolution of the Navitimer
The Navitimer has never stopped evolving. Over the years, Breitling has introduced numerous refinements, ensuring that it remains at the forefront of aviation watchmaking, whilst retaining the wealth of functionality that makes this watch so unique.
The current Navitimer collection offers watches in a wide range of colours, materials, sizes and styles. Central to the range is the Navitimer BO1, which is a direct descendent of the 1950s original watch. Classic Navitimer styling is all present and correct, with today’s watch powered by the in-house automatic Breitling Calibre 01 which offers 70 hours power reserve.
Over 70 years since it was introduced, the Navitimer continues to occupy its own unique place in watchmaking. It's a genuine piece of aviation history, a trusted companion for pilots and adventurers, and one of the most recognisable chronographs ever produced. Whether you’re timing a flight, navigating the skies, or simply enjoying its iconic design, the Navitimer is, as it always has been, a benchmark in precision and functionality.
4. Zenith El Primero
What makes the El Primero iconic:
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A game changer in precision timekeeping.
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Setting a new standard for accuracy in watchmaking when it made its debut in 1969, the El Primero was the world’s first fully integrated automatic chronograph.
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Running at 36,000 vph, its high-beat movement measures time to 1/10th of a second, and remains one of the most precise and respected chronographs ever made.
The El Primero, or ‘The First’, represents a significant milestone in horological history as a movement that changed the course of watchmaking forever. Arguably the first automatic chronograph ever produced, what really set the El Primero apart when it launched was the high frequency of its movement which offered a level of precision unheard of at the time. Today the El Primero remains one of the most respected calibres of all time, and Zenith’s El Primero range continues to offer beautifully engineered watches with a pedigree like no other.
The First Automatic Chronograph
The 1960s was a golden age for mechanical watches, but at a time when all chronographs were still manual-wind, the next frontier in horology was clear: To create an automatic chronograph. This was a task that required incredible engineering and had never been successfully achieved before.
In January 1969, Zenith announced the El Primero, beating its Japanese and fellow Swiss rivals to the title. However it was more than just the first, it was technically superior in nearly every way.
What made the El Primero different from the rest? Unlike the Heuer-Breitling Calibre 11, which used a modular construction (attaching a chronograph module to an automatic base movement), the El Primero was fully integrated from the ground up. More impressively, it featured a high-frequency 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph) movement, allowing it to measure time to 1/10th of a second, something its competitors couldn’t match.
Zenith’s A386 chronograph was the first timepiece to house the revolutionary El Primero movement. Debuting in 1969, it featured a 38mm stainless steel case, a beautifully balanced tri-color dial, and a distinctive pulsometer/tachymeter scale. Its subdials in blue, gray, and silver became an instant signature design. The A386 set the stage for generations of El Primero watches, and even today, modern Zenith chronographs still pay tribute to its unique aesthetic.
The El Primero’s Brush with Extinction
By the early 1970s, the Swiss watch industry was in turmoil. The rise in cheaper, ultra-accurate quartz watches was considered the future and was devastating the market for traditional mechanical watches. Many Swiss brands, desperate to stay afloat, began abandoning mechanical movements altogether.
In 1975, Zenith’s corporate owners decided to shut down mechanical movement production entirely, shifting focus to quartz technology. The El Primero, despite its brilliance, was deemed obsolete. The company ordered that all tools, schematics, and production machinery be destroyed.
Charles Vermot’s Secret Attic
Zenith watchmaker Charles Vermot knew that the El Primero was too special to be lost forever. Defying company orders, he hid all the essential production tools, dies, and blueprints in an attic above the Zenith workshop. He kept his secret for nearly a decade, believing that one day, the world would rediscover its love for mechanical watches.
Vermont was right, and in the 1980s, Swiss watchmakers began reviving traditional mechanical movements. Zenith’s new management was stunned to learn that Vermot had preserved everything needed to restart El Primero production. Thanks to his foresight, the El Primero was reborn, just in time to power another of the most iconic chronographs of all time.
The Rolex Daytona Connection
In 1988, Rolex was developing the first automatic Daytona chronograph. At the time, the brand didn’t have an in-house automatic chronograph movement of its own, so it needed to source one from an external manufacturer. After extensive testing, Rolex chose the El Primero, modifying it to fit its needs.
For over a decade (1988-2000), Rolex’s Daytona 16520 was powered by a modified El Primero movement (Calibre 4030). This partnership cemented the El Primero’s legendary status, proving its unrivaled reliability and accuracy.
The El Primero Today
Today, the El Primero remains one of the most celebrated chronograph calibres in history. Over the years, Zenith has continued to refine and evolve the movement and the watches it powers, and the current range includes both modern recreations of historic models along with forward looking references that push new boundaries.
The Chronomaster Original, powered by the El Primero 3600 calibre offers the same classic proportions and 38mm case as the original ref. A386 from 1969, while the Chronomaster Revival provides a faithful reproduction of the square/tonneau shaped Zenith A384 and A385 watches that were released around the same time.
A modern take on a classic, the El Primero Chronomaster Sport, provides a contemporary 41mm case paired with a steel or ceramic engraved bezel. Meanwhile, models such as the Defy 21 deliver a more futuristic take on the El Primero concept, using contemporary case design, materials, and a movement capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second.
Despite all these advancements, the core DNA of the El Primero remains unchanged. As one of the most respected and innovative chronographs ever made, Zenith’s El Primero is a true testament to the endurance and genius of Swiss watchmaking.
5. TAG Heuer Monaco
What makes the Monaco iconic:
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The world’s first square cased automatic chronograph.
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The Monaco broke every rule of traditional watch design when it debuted in 1969 and remains one of the most distinctive, rebellious, and uniquely stylish chronographs ever created.
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Immortalised by Steve McQueen in Le Mans (1971), it delivers authentic watchmaking heritage with an extra splash of Hollywood cool.
Few watches break convention, redefine style, and carve out their own place in history quite like the Heuer Monaco. When it first went on sale at the end of the 1960s, it was unlike anything the watch world had ever seen. This was a bold, square-cased, automatic chronograph that was as futuristic as it was rebellious. While many watches earn their fame over decades, the Monaco exploded onto the scene, disrupting traditional watchmaking with its avant-garde design and cutting-edge technology.
Breaking the Rules
The 1960s were a period of intense competition in the watch industry, particularly in the development of the first automatic chronograph movement. Watchmakers had been experimenting with mechanical chronographs for decades, but the missing piece was an automatic winding system, a feature that would revolutionise how chronographs were worn and used.
As we know, three teams were in the race to develop the first automatic chronograph: Zenith, Seiko, and Heuer (along with its partners). While Zenith’s El Primero would go on to be known for its high-frequency precision, Heuer and its partners took a different approach. Their Calibre 11 movement used a modular chronograph system with a micro-rotor, allowing for automatic winding while maintaining a slim profile. But Heuer wasn’t just interested in the movement, it wanted a watch that would shock the industry; something that had never been done before.
The result was the Heuer Monaco (Ref. 1133B), unveiled on March 3, 1969. It was the first water-resistant square-cased chronograph ever produced, a radical departure from traditional round watches of the time. With its bright blue dial, red hands, and large square pushers, it was futuristic, bold, and completely unlike anything else on the market.
To make sure everyone noticed just how unconventional it was, Heuer placed the crown on the left side of the case, signaling that this was an automatic watch that did not need winding. It was a rebellious move, just like the Monaco itself.
Innovation Meets Commercial Struggles
Despite its groundbreaking technology, the Monaco was not an instant hit. The radical square case was too bold for many buyers, and the Calibre 11 movement, while impressive, was still in its early stages and not as refined as collectors would later appreciate. As a result, the Monaco struggled to find an audience and production numbers remained relatively low.
By the mid-1970s, the watch industry was facing a much bigger problem in the Quartz Crisis. The rise of cheap, highly accurate quartz watches from Japan devastated Swiss watchmakers, including Heuer. By the end of the decade, mechanical watches were no longer seen as cutting-edge, and models like the Monaco were quietly phased out.
For a time, it seemed that the Monaco was destined to be just a footnote in horological history, a forgotten experiment in design. But then, a stroke of cinematic magic changed everything.
The Steve McQueen Effect
In 1971, Hollywood superstar Steve McQueen was filming the motorsport epic Le Mans. McQueen, a dedicated racing driver himself, was obsessed with authenticity. He wanted the film to look and feel as real as possible, down to the watches worn by the drivers.
McQueen’s racing instructor on set was Jo Siffert, a Swiss Formula 1 driver who happened to be sponsored by Heuer. As a result, Heuer chronographs were everywhere in the racing world, and when it came time for McQueen to choose a watch for his character, he selected the Heuer Monaco Reference 1133B.
With McQueen’s endorsement, the Monaco was immortalised on the silver screen, becoming a symbol of motorsport rebellion and effortless cool. Suddenly, the watch that had once been a slow seller became a cult icon, associated with one of the most charismatic and stylish actors of all time. But despite its newfound fame, Heuer had discontinued the Monaco by the mid-1970s, and it would take nearly two decades for the watch to make a full comeback.
A Legend Reborn
By the late 1990s, the now TAG Heuer recognised that the Monaco’s time had finally come. In 1998, the brand reintroduced the Monaco, embracing its vintage roots while modernising it for a new generation.
In the years since, TAG has released a number of updates and variations of the watch. Highlights include the Gulf Special Edition, released in 2003, that paid tribute to the Gulf Oil livery worn by McQueen’s car in Le Mans. To celebrate the Monaco’s 40th anniversary in 2009, TAG Heuer introduced the Monaco Calibre 12, featuring an upgraded movement, and in 2019 the Monaco Heuer 02 was released, featuring an in-house automatic chronograph movement, marking the first fully in-house calibre in Monaco history.
Today, the Monaco is a staple in the TAG Heuer catalogue and the range includes options in a variety of colours, materials and sizes, including a faithful modern version of the original watch complete with Calibre 11 movement, 39mm square case and blue dial.
To non-enthusiasts the looks of the Monaco can sometimes be divisive, even after all these years, which is surely testament to the power of the original design. However, amongst connoisseurs, there’s no denying that it has earned its place as a true icon of horology that combines innovation, heritage and the spirit of rebellion in one distinctive square package.
6. IWC Pilot’s Chronograph
What makes the Pilot’s Chronograph iconic:
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A masterclass in legibility, function and design.
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The innovative Doppelchronograph introduced the first double chronograph movement when it launched in 1992.
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A purpose made tool watch, its timeless and highly legible instrument-panel aesthetic builds on IWC’s long established legacy of producing pilot’s watches.
Born from a long tradition of military-grade Fliegeruhren (pilot’s watches), IWC’s chronographs have become indispensable tools for professional aviators, military squadrons, and watch enthusiasts around the world. With its ultra-legible dial, oversized pushers, and legendary durability, the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph is a mechanical instrument designed for the cockpit. To this day it remains a benchmark in pilot’s watch design, offering the perfect fusion of functionality, military legacy, and Swiss precision.
IWC’s History in Aviation Watches
IWC’s connection to aviation watches dates back to World War II, when it was one of a handful of manufacturers producing pilot’s watches for military use. These early timepieces, such as the IWC Big Pilot (B-Uhr), were built to withstand high altitudes, extreme weather conditions, and the magnetic fields inside aircraft cockpits.
By the 1980s, however, IWC recognised that the era of large pocket-watch-sized pilot watches was over. The future of aviation watches lay in chronographs that were durable, precise, and capable of measuring flight times with ease. This led to the development of the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph, a watch that would go on to become a staple for professional pilots and aviation enthusiasts.
The First IWC Pilot’s Chronograph
While we think of IWC as an innovative mechanical watch powerhouse today, its first foray into pilot’s chronographs actually began with a quartz movement. In 1988, IWC introduced Reference 3740, a quartz powered chronograph housed in a stainless steel case.
Why quartz? At the time, the Quartz Crisis had forced many Swiss brands to experiment with battery-powered movements in an attempt to compete with the ultra-accurate quartz watches that were flooding the market. The 3740 featured an ultra-thin movement, allowing for a sleek, compact case that was far more wearable than earlier oversized Flieger watches.
Despite its modern technology, enthusiasts and collectors still craved a return to mechanical movements. IWC understood this, and soon it was time to bring mechanical watchmaking back to the forefront of the Pilot’s Chronograph collection.
A New Mechanical Era
In 1994, IWC introduced the legendary Reference 3706, marking the first fully mechanical Pilot’s Chronograph in the brand’s history. Powered by the Valjoux 7750 movement, the 3706 featured a rugged 39mm stainless steel case, a highly legible dial, and a tri-compax chronograph layout.
The 3706 became an instant classic, praised for its military-inspired design and robust construction. Key features included a highly legible white on black flieger-style dial with white filled sword style hands and luminous Arabic numerals, a shock-resistant stainless steel case, and a soft iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic fields within the cockpit. The asymmetric dial also offered day and date complications at the 3 o’clock position, alongside three chrono subdials at 6, 9, and 12.
This model defined what a modern aviation chronograph should be; tough, legible, and utterly reliable. But IWC wasn’t done innovating yet.
The Ceramic Pilot’s Chronograph
Alongside the 3706, IWC introduced something truly groundbreaking with Reference 3705, the first Pilot’s Chronograph with a black ceramic case.
In the early 1990s, ceramic was quite a rare and futuristic material in watchmaking, and IWC was among the first brands to experiment with it for professional timepieces. The 3705 featured the same Valjoux 7750 movement and dial layout as the 3706, but its matte black zirconium oxide case made it not only highly scratch resistant and extremely lightweight, but also resistant to heat and corrosion.
Despite its technical brilliance, the 3705 was somewhat of a commercial failure at the time as buyers were hesitant about ceramic’s durability. IWC produced only around 1,000 pieces, making it one of the rarest and most collectible IWC chronographs today. In 2021, IWC honored this cult classic with the Tribute to 3705, a modern reinterpretation using the brand’s cutting-edge Ceratanium material.
Updates & Refinements
By the mid-2000s, the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph had evolved into a more contemporary and refined timepiece. Reference 3717 (introduced in 2006) featured a larger 42mm case, updated typography, and a more streamlined dial layout. This was followed by Reference 3777, which further refined the Pilot’s Chronograph with a larger 43mm case for enhanced legibility, modern anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and updated pushers and crown for improved usability.
These models became the foundation of the modern IWC Pilot’s Chronograph lineup, combining classic flieger aesthetics with modern durability and precision.
Innovation Meets Tradition
Looking at modern versions of the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph it’s easy to see the collection’s DNA, while also being able to appreciate the ongoing advancements and updates IWC has introduced over the years. Today, the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph collection features some of the most advanced and robust aviation chronographs ever made.
Highlights include the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph 41 in a highly wearable 41mm case and powered by IWC’s in-house Calibre 69385, the IWC Top Gun Ceratanium which features a scratch-resistant Ceratanium case (an evolution of the original 3705 ceramic model), and the IWC Spitfire Chronograph, a vintage-inspired model with a bronze case that evokes the classic military pilot watches of the 1940s.
Whether you prefer the charm of the 1990s versions, or the sophistication of more recent releases, there’s plenty to enjoy in these watches that are clearly designed for a purpose. Despite its many advancements, the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph remains true to its roots; a watch designed for those who value precision, functionality, and heritage.
A Chronograph For Every Collector
Chronographs are among the most popular and versatile watches in the world, combining precision timing with mechanical complexity and an undeniable sense of style. Whether designed for the racetrack, the cockpit, or even outer space, these timepieces have played a vital role in history, worn by astronauts, race car drivers, and pilots alike.
Each of the chronographs in our top six represents a different facet of watchmaking excellence, blending cutting-edge engineering, historical significance, and distinctive design. Whether you’re drawn to the Daytona’s prestige, the Speedmaster’s lunar legacy, the Monaco’s rebellious charm, or the Navitimer’s aviation heritage, there is a chronograph for every personality and passion.
If you’re looking to own one of these iconic chronographs, the pre-owned watch market offers an incredible variety of vintage and modern examples, making it easier than ever to find a watch that suits your personal style and budget. Whether you're in search of a well-preserved early piece with decades of history, or an unworn modern interpretation with cutting-edge technology, the choices are endless.
Chronographs From Watches.co.uk
At Watches.co.uk we carefully select, authenticate, and guarantee the best pre-owned chronographs for sale. Take a look at the watches we currently have in stock, or contact our expert team for help in finding your own iconic chronograph.
Browse In-Stock Chronograph Watches